Multinational Cycle Tour from Vienna – Danube Cycleway and Franz Schubert Cycleway

Göttweig Abbey (Stift Göttweig) TerraceSitting on a sun soaked terrace overlooking the Danube Valley. Careful not to drink too much wine before a flying descent! The high spot of a two day, 18 person, multinational cycle tour to follow the ECF AGM . What a great mix – Bulgaria, Poland, Russia, Ireland, Spain, Cyprus, Netherlands, Austria, Portugal, USA, UK and Germany, all brought together by cycle advocacy.

Also see my gallery of houses and gardens from the ride here

Day 1. Vienna to Tulln an der Donau on the Danube Cycleway. 45km.

Leaving Vienna on the city cycle network and then joining the side of the Danube Canal until it joins the main river about 7km out of the city.

Klosterneuberg

Klosterneuberg

Then a mixture of paths by the river and minor roads until suddenly we turn a nondescript corner and the striking Klosterneuburg appears in front of us. A leisurely lunch in the café and a wander through the artworks in the gallery.

Back onto the minor roads and a wind through the summer houses which appear all the way along the river. These range from wooden shacks to large houses but almost all are in great condition and show a real affection by the owners for these properties.

Danube Radweg

Danube Radweg

Then emerging onto the banks of the river again for a push on to Tulln. This was actually quite hard for the members of our group who are not regular tourists. A bit tired and we had moved to the north bank which exposes us to the full breeze from the east.It just proved the point that wind is a far greater enemy of the cyclist than hills.This stretch of the river was actually a bit of a disappointment, it really does look like an enormous canal but it is a really easy ride. It is also clearly popular with local riders who seem to really enjoy heading out down one side of the river and returning on the other.

It was also good social cycling territory for us because we could ride socially after being hassled by drivers a number of times.

However the light was stunning and it brought out smiles on all the faces, especially as we swung over the last bridge to Tulln.

Tulln an der Donau Marcus Aurelius

Tulln an der Donau Marcus Aurelius

Boldly looking out over the river is Marcus Aurelius – provincial governor who protected the Danube frontier against the Barbarians before later becoming Roman Emperor.

Day 2. Tulln to Krems. Mostly the Franz Schubert cycleway – 55km

Named after the area where trendy citizens of Vienna would come for summer break in the early 19th century including the fashionable young Schubert.

Particularly famous for its wines, the Lower Austrian wine route celebrates hundreds of years of winemaking on the fertile flood plains that border the Danube.

Celebrating 700 years of winemaking

Celebrating 700 years of winemaking

This route started pancake flat, sticking to the floodplane of the Danube despite swinging south of the river for a more scenic route. It was lovely.  Spring was everywhere and the stunning light brought out the colours in the architecture, the gardens and the villages.Blot on the landscape was the big ugly scar of the new high speed rail line connecting Vienna to Germany. Time for a few photos to send off to the anti-HST campaigners in the Chilterns.

But the stars of the first part of the ride were the little wine shops set into the bluffs at the edge of the floodplain. These have existed for hundreds of years, behind each house is a deep cellar running into the hillside. For two hundred years they have had a unique licence granted by the Hapsburg dukes. This allows each vintner to open for just six weeks a year and sell an agreed amount of wine. By arrangement the farmers have set up a roster which means that they don’t all take the same weeks.

Schubert Radweg gets hilly

Schubert Radweg gets hilly

After we end the wine route we cross a tributary of the Danube at Traismaur and set ourselves up for the final 20km which are very different – two substantial climbs, the only ones of the ride. But it’s well worth it for me because we get up to some stunning views over the Danube. Our group of commuter cyclists and campaigners did rather find it hard going, lots of walking for this last leg. But hats off to Yurgos from Cyprus – rode everything on his Brompton with great style.

Approaching Gottweig Abbey from below

We have to climg that?!

We are headed for Göttweig Abbey (Stift Göttweig) which is a Benedictine monastery set in a most amazing position on a hill above the town of Krems. The monastery was the dominant economic force in the region for hundreds of years owning the land, the farms and of course all the rights to the surrounding vineyards.

Now that produce can be celebrated in the restaurant which must have one of the best views in Austria, especially on a spring day. Having a hard hot ride to the top justified a couple of courses and a half bottle of the fruity white from the surrounding hills.

Gottweig Abbey descent

Gottweig Abbey descent

White knuckle descent but well worth it. Thanks to Wilhelm of Elite Tours for the entertaining leadership and efficient organisation.

Houses, gardens and architecture of the Danube valley – Lower Austria

Gallery

This gallery contains 12 photos.

Spring sunshine, sharp sunlight. The colours of the buildings, houses and gardens are brought into sharp focus while cycling along the Danube Cycleway and the Franz Schubert Cycleway between Vienna and Krems. I especially like the old wine houses and … Continue reading

Rant time – Austrian drivers

My big wake up call. I have never seen cars and buses routinely used for deliberate intimidation on the scale of my last four days in Austria.

I have cycled all over the world. Most of the time driver behaviour doesn’t worry me too much. I get annoyed by rank stupidity, unnecessary speed, impatience and incompetence, but so do drivers and walkers. Abuse comes, but the threat is minimal and not physical.

Four days ago in Vienna was the first time I saw a car driver partially overtake a group and then steer into the side of the group to force us out of the lane. I thought it was a mixture of incompetence and impatience, someone unable to realise that the group was 50 metres long.

But then several times more over the next three days, including hand gestures to make the intention quite clear. A city bus – like the hated bendy buses of London, but this driver deliberately trapped five riders against the kerb by pulling across us.

While most drivers waited politely to let our groups turn to the left across the traffic flow together yesterday there was a guy who sped towards the group to scatter it out of his way.

I wish I had the presence of mind to take photos or get the bus number, at least in Vienna. I think there would have been some local government embarrassment about intimidation of a visiting cyclists’ group, but the drivers clearly had no such fears.

Maybe I’m naïve – riding companion Vladimir from Moscow said he was not at all surprised by the drivers, but he felt safer in Russia because most roads had shoulders which the cyclists use and he did feel uncomfortable in a group out on the carriageway on rural roads. But I guess I expected Austria to be more benign, at least like Germany.

Most Austrian cyclists I met were positive about the direction of cycling in the country, and especially the potential for tourism with the stunning scenery and iconic routes like the Danube cycle route. Clearly their drivers have a lot of catching up to do and it would be a shame if this put visitors off.

Rant over – later I’ll follow up with some more positive Austrian stories.

Springtime 3 – In praise of David Hockney’s exhibition “A bigger picture”

I have been floundering around this week trying to blog a few words about a cyclists’s feeling of spring. After going to the David Hockney exhibition at the Royal Academy today I am blown away.

I loved much of it, but the highlight was 51 images shown in a single room as a single artwork. “The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate, East Yorkshire in 2011″ was made for this show and depicts a few scenes repeatedly created over the six months from January to June 2011. Extraordinarily vibrant colours, changes in mood and tone. Stunning, all done on an I-Pad in what must have been amazing bursts of energy.

Almost as exceptional was a room full of hawthorns. I was looking across the heads through to another room when a burst of white in the distance could only be the vibrancy of a hedgerow bursting in to spring life. As I wandered into the room it had differing flowering scenes on every wall. Hockney calls the week that the first buds appear Action Week, to emphasise that spring is the hardest time to capture as an artist because it changes so fast.

I wish I could claim that Hockney was a cyclist or a dog walker, but of course he isn’t. But this exhibition captured an essence of the English countryside that we can recognise vividly. Perhaps because he has captured the hedgerows and trackways that cycle tourists love so much, or because he has captured that feeling that every ride can be a new adventure, even it is on a road we have seen a hundred times before. Whatever it is if you can get to this show before it closes go.

None of the links I can give you really show this room to its full effect, but if you can’t go do look.

Royal Academy Blog

Art Finder Blog on WordPress

Treehugger web site article